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Eruption in the Andes: Veil of Ash

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Jeff Brydon sets out on a hike across some of Chile’s most awe-inspiring scenery, within touching distance of several of the country’s magnificent volcanoes. But when he awakes to find the world smothered in a haze of ash, Jeff must scramble to evacuate. All signs of the trail have been eliminated. A twisting, terrifying journey ensues… A Noiser podcast production. Hosted by John Hopkins. Written by Heléna Lewis | Produced by Ed Baranski | Assistant Producer: Luke Lonergan | Exec produced by Joel Duddell | Sound Supervisor: Tom Pink | Sound design by Matt Peaty | Assembly edit by Rob Plummer | Compositions by Oliver Baines, Dorry Macaulay, Tom Pink | Mix & mastering: Ralph Tittley. For ad-free listening, bonus material and early access to new episodes, join Noiser+. Click the subscription banner at the top of the feed to get started. Or go to noiser.com/subscriptions If you have an amazing survival story of your own that you’d like to put forward for the show, let us know. Drop us an email at [email protected] Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

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Eruption in the Andes: Veil of Ash

Real Survival Stories

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Real Survival StoriesEruption in the Andes: Veil of Ash. Machine-transcribed; use the interactive transcript above to jump the player to any line.

It's the morning of Wednesday, April 22nd, 2015, deep in the Vierrika National Park in Central Chile. Nestled against the Argentine border, in the foothills of the Andes, the park sprawls across 630 square kilometers of rugged wilderness, and encompasses a dazzling variety of scenery. Verdant forests cover the low slopes, while the high inclines are home to dramatic stretches of rocky plains, meadowland, and a trio of spectacular snow-capped volcanoes. Normally this place has this striking, otherworldly beauty, but not today. A thick grey veil of ash has shrouded the landscape, leaching it of colour and obscuring any distinction between the earth and the sky. This is the lifeless aftermath of an explosive volcanic eruption. It is totally silent. Nothing moves within the dead, drab expanse. Until something breaks

the stillness, the distant sound of footsteps. A moment later, a weak beam of light pierces the darkness, illuminating the powdery ash that falls from the heavens like dirty snow. Two men stumble out of the monochrome haze, following the weak shaft of light cast by their headlamps. With their shirts tied tightly around their faces, all its visible of their eyes. Encombed by their bulky rucksacks, 25-year-old Jeff Brighton and 24-year-old Aviv Bromberg pick their way over the uneven alien terrain. Jeff squints through the gloom, trying to spot any indication of the hiking trail, but it's near impossible. It was almost like a submarine in the blackest depths of the ocean. It was just this little bubble of light with nothing beyond. Only able to see a few feet ahead of them, the two men scound the dense, dull measma for clues. But, uncertain of their direction,

they can't tell if they're getting closer to the path or further away. It's all too easy to become disorientated. We just found ourselves starting to go in circles. Immediately starting to feel like, okay, are we getting more and more lost? Are we getting closer to the trail or further? And I had no idea. With dwindling food and water supplies, and no cell phone signal, Jeff and Aviv are in equipped to deal with this apocalyptic landscape. Unshore, which of the regions many volcanoes has erupted or how close it is to them, it's imperative they get out of the area as soon as possible. But if they can't pick up the trail, there's every chance they will simply wander deeper into the harsh, unforgiving wilderness. And if that happens, there's no telling where or how their adventure will end. We're just kind of stumbling around in this hellscape and getting more and more lost. And so this point on getting really worried and thinking, this is not going to work,

we're going to be completely lost in this blackness. Ever wondered what you would do when disaster strikes? If your life depended on your next decision, could you make the right choice? Welcome to Real Survival Stories. These are the astonishing tales of ordinary people thrown into extraordinary situations, people suddenly forced to fight for their lives. In this episode, we meet Jeff Brighton. In 2015, the 25-year-old has embarked on a six-month backpacking trip through South America, when he decides to hike the Via Ricca Traverse, a 32-mile three-day trek across some of Chile's most awe-inspiring scenery. The hike will take Jeff and his new travel companion, Aviv, within sight of several of the country's magnificent volcanoes, one of which was recently erupted. It was still smoking, and it had been a huge eruption, like hundreds of feet high lava

shooting into this guy. I can see the smoke was lit up orange and kind of got this ominous feeling. Like, okay, hopefully it's done erupting. What are the odds that it'll go again? But when Jeff and Aviv wake up on the final morning of their trek, to find the world smothered by a dense grey haze, it reaffirms just how active the regions volcanoes remain. What follows is a scramble to evacuate the area as quickly as possible. But with all indications of the trail subsumed beneath a thick blanket of ash, their journey back to safety will become near impossible. Toxic fumes, zero visibility, and a threat of further eruptions all hang heavy. In the airy, ash-filled air. In the back of my mind, I'm picturing red hot molten rock, just nipping out of the sky and landing on us. There was just this feeling of we should get the hell out of here. I'm John Hopkins. From the Noiser Podcast Network, this is Real Survival Stories.

It's Sunday, April the 19th, 2015, in the small city of Poucan, central Chile. Tourists touting heavy packs and hiking poles weave their way along the sand apple streets, past the bars blaring Latin music. There's a plethora of signs and shopfronts, advertising extreme sports, adventure experiences, and guided tours. Situated on the eastern shores of Lake Vierica, and within striking distance of a number of national parks and nature reserves, it's no surprise Poucan has gained a reputation for being the sports adventure capital of the country. But the real draw is the Vierica volcano, located just a handful of miles to the south of the city. This huge glacier-clad beast presides majestically

over the surrounding landscape, emitting the occasional cloud of dirty grey smoke. It's considered one of the most active volcanoes in the world, and attracts thrill seekers from across the globe. One of those is a 25-year-old Californian man who zigzags through the crowded streets, as well-traveled backpacked, digging into his shoulders. This is Jeff Brighton. I was on a six-month backpacking adventure across South America. I had started in Colombia, and I had a vague goal to make it all the way down to Patagonia on the southernmost end of South America, and I had already completed that, and now winter was coming, and I was kind of making my way back north. In Chile, autumn falls between March and May, with winter beginning in June. With the seasons and the weather soon to turn, Jeff is determined to make the most of his travels before the colder months set in. My destination near the Vierica volcano is known as the Adventure

Capital of Chile, Ucon. So I decided to make my way over there, and I had seen some pretty awesome stuff you can do there. There's rafting, and I had read about this really epic hike, the Vierica Traverse. Beginning near the volcano, it's named after the Vierica Traverse can be tracked in either three or five days. Jeff has chosen to attempt the three-day route. The 32-mile trail will take him through a staggering array of different scenery, from luscious rainforests to desolate lava fields. And most thrillingly of all, it will be blessed with spectacular views of the various volcanoes which define the National Park. Jeff doesn't intend to hike the trail alone. With him is 24-year-old Aviv Bromberg, a new travel companion he met by chance on the way to Buccon. The winter was coming on, and so I hadn't been able to do a lot of the backpacking and adventures that I wanted to within that last month,

and then I saw this epic weather window coming in of sun, and so I hopped on the bus to Buccon, and on the bus I met Aviv, and just really not friendly Israeli guy who was on a similar journey as me going across South America. I kind of even the rundown of this hike I had read about, and he immediately agreed to do it, so we didn't really know each other, but he was friendly and cool, and he signed up for this crazy three-day trek into the milderness. But before Jeff and Aviv can set off on their adventure, they need to secure permits to enter the park. Excitedly talking about their upcoming trip, the two men make their way to the ranges office and step inside. Blinking hard as their eyes adjust to the dim electric lighting. In the mixture of English and broken Spanish, they greet the park officials and explain their intention to hike the Viericot reverse. But their plans are quickly shot down. With apologetic shrugs,

the ranges tell them the park is closed until further notice. Recent snowfall at high altitude has made sections of the trail too dangerous to hike. There is nothing to be done. Slumped with disappointment, Jeff and Aviv walk back out into the bright Chilean sunshine. The wonderful weather, almost taunting them. As they meander back to their hostel, they glance up at the Viericov volcano towering above them. They may never be this close to it again. We had this epic weather window that we didn't want to miss out on. And so, even though they had told us the whole park was closed, we decided to go for it anyways. It was kind of our last chance before winter and it was this legendary hike. And I kind of had also figured, you know, we're going into the wilderness. Human rules don't apply as long as you're confident and you have everything you need. That's what backpacking is all about. You're completely self-sufficient.

And so, we had this confidence that only young men have that we could handle whatever came up, probably a little too much confidence. Decision made the two men return to their hostel, their hopes buoyed, and begin making preparations to set out early the next day. Though going against the ranges instructions obviously carries hazards. For Jeff and Aviv, the chance of hiking the renowned trail is too good to pass up. Besides, Jeff isn't exactly averse to taking risks. Originally from a much more urban environment, he developed an interest in nature from a young age and has come to enjoy extreme sports and outdoor pursuits. I grew up in San Francisco near a famous street, the Hade Ashbury area, known for hippies. And so, I guess I was kind of living this city life, and yet I was lucky enough that my parents would take me out to Yosemite, and I started from a young age to gain an appreciation for nature.

I think it's something you appreciate more when you don't have a lot of it around you in a big city. I've always been a bit of an adrenaline junkie, so part of it is the adventure, and a lot of times when I'm outside, I'm either climbing up the side of the cliff or on a mountain. Yeah, I'm more calm things like just backpacking and hiking, and it's very meditative, but some of my draw is, I guess, this adrenaline and adventure. These personality traits have taken Jeff across the globe and into some intense situations. In 2011, he was on a study abroad program in Christchurch, New Zealand, when he was caught up in an extreme natural disaster. I was sitting down in my first class of the semester, and literally before the class was out, the entire room, lurch sideways by several feet, and just started swinging wildly back and forth for about 30 seconds. Everyone dove under the desks, and the lights were swinging like crazy

back and forth. The city ended up getting pretty wrecked, and some people were freaking out and making strange decisions, and I remember during that experience, realizing that I was able to keep common to pressure. The 2011 Christchurch earthquake was a major tragedy, killing 185 people, injuring thousands and causing billions of dollars worth of damage. Jeff was among the lucky ones, but despite his near miss, the experience didn't put him off traveling or signal adventure. Four years later, he finds himself in South America, preparing to attempt the Villa Rica traverse, despite the recent heavy snowfall. For a young man like Jeff, it's what life is all about. I guess it just makes you feel alive. You're kind of playing with fear, pushing your limits, and yeah, it just feels great in the moment when you're, you know, soaring down the side of the mountain on a snowboard or launching off a cliff. I guess it shuts your brain up as well.

So you're just completely kind of in the moment, you're in a flow state, if you will. Jeff doesn't know it yet, but the Villa Rica traverse will prove to be his most memorable adventure to date, just not in the way that he is expecting. After making the last of their preparations for the upcoming hike and eating a hearty dinner, Jeff and Aviv settled down to get a decent night's rest. They have an early start tomorrow. We're following morning the two men wake before sunrise. They quietly lace up their boots and grab their rocksacks, trying not to disturb any of the hostels or the guests. Then they climb into a battered taxi that will take them to the trailhead at the base of the Villa Rica volcano. With an elevation of over 9,000 feet, it's an impressive sight, particularly because of its recent activity. I turned out that the volcano had actually erupted a month before, and it was

still smoking. And it had been a huge eruption, like hundreds of feet high lava shooting into this guy. And so I remember we're cruising out in the taxi in the pre-dawn darkness and I can see the smoke was lit up orange and kind of got this ominous feeling of like, okay, hopefully it's done erupting. What are the odds that it'll go again? After parking up in the foothills of the volcano, Jeff and Aviv pay their driver and swing their packs onto their shoulders. Then they start their hike. The initial ascent follows a demanding incline through a dense, moss-covered forest. As Jeff and Aviv walk, the sun starts to creep above the horizon, bathing their surroundings in a warm, soft light. The trees are ablaze with a ride of red and gold, shore signs of the changing seasons. Every so often, they pause to admire the

view. The scenery's breathtaking. It was a really cool hike. You could see different snow-capped peaks in different directions. And I remember there was these really weird alien-looking trees. Overall, it just felt like this really wild wilderness that kind of blew our minds. The two men weave their way along the path following the red poles to act as trail markers. They discuss how pleased they are that they've gone ahead with this hike, despite the warnings. We were being dumb. As only young adventurers can be, but we were confident we could handle ourselves and make it through the snow and this park. We had everything we needed to survive, and we had some backpacking experience, so we just figured go for it. Jeff and Aviv emerge from the tree line and the landscape rapidly altars. They step into a series of black lava fields strewn with volcanic rocks. The exposed rugged landscape is like

something from another world. They pause to admire the views of the Vierica volcano behind them and the Ketrupian volcano up ahead. Above a few wispy clouds saunter through the brilliant blue sky. The sun is warm and bright. It's perfect hiking weather. Jeff and Aviv don't see another soul as they continue on their journey. The silence and isolation leave a lot of room for them to talk and get to know each other better. He was just such a great hiking companion. He was always super upbeat. He was very odd by this beautiful wild landscape and I remember he had this super old, uncomfortable looking backpack and yeah he was just absolutely tireless. He could have kept going each day well beyond where I got tired, but he was always waiting up for me in a super super great guy. Eventually the new friends

hit the snow they'd been warned about. The smooth white surface glitters in the sunshine, pristine and untrodden. We finally reached some snow and this was why they had closed the park and it turned out to be fine. We could see these red trail markers every few hundred feet and so that's what you could use to follow the trail and we also could see no other footprints in the snow so we knew we were totally alone out there but it had just gone super well. We have it in great time, feeling super lucky to have this awesome weather and just feeling alive. In such good conditions they make excellent progress. By the end of the second day they've covered about 25 miles. Tomorrow they should reach their destination in just a few hours. Please they stop for the night with insight of the magnificent snow-covered Lenin volcano which stands guard on the border of Chile and Argentina. The exact date of its last eruption is

uncertain. All in all it's an imposing presence. Jeff and Aviv set up camp near a beautiful blue lake. It's smooth, glassy surface reflecting the setting sun. After two long days of hiking the chance to enjoy a refreshing dip is too tempting to resist. But as they glide through the cool clear water and odd noise suddenly makes Jeff look up. We're swimming in this lake near a campsite and I didn't hear this distant boom. It wasn't like super earth-shaking it was kind of just a very subtle boom and yeah I just wrote it off as rockfall. Didn't really think much of it. The enigmatic distant rumble dies away and is replaced by silence once more. Putting the strange noise to one side the two men relax and enjoy the rest of their evening.

After drying off and having dinner they crawl into the shelter of their tent and slide into their sleeping bags. So far this trip couldn't have gone any better. We were just feeling good and and glad we had ignored the park service and gone for it and went to bed thinking wow we're so lucky. When Jeff's alarm wakes him at 8 a.m. he groggily reaches out to quieten it. But when he opens his eyes he sees only blackness. He blinks. Nothing. I wake up to complete darkness. I couldn't even see my hand in front of my face it was like being blind. Uncertainly Jeff grobes for his headlamp and switches it on. The beam carves a path through the darkness of the tent but reveals nothing out of the ordinary. He checks the time again. It's definitely 8 a.m. morning. Confused he crawls towards the

canvas door and unzips it. What he sees outside makes his breath catch in his throat. As soon as I open the door to the tent I just see this blizzard of ash. It is the morning of Wednesday April 22nd 2015. The skies above Chile's Vierica National Park are ominously dark. The sun swallowed up a thick cloud of volcanic ash. The fine grey flakes fall silently under the rocky terrain draining the world of color and making it impossible to see more than a few inches ahead. From the shelter of his tent 25-year-old Jeff Brighton gazes out at the shrouded landscape in disbelief. It's virtually unrecognizable. From the vibrant, varied terrain he's been trekking with his friend Aviv for the last couple of days. It just looked like a heavy snowfall

of ash and the ground is already covered with about an inch or maybe two of ash and it's just completely silent and my headlamp is really only able to cut through about five feet of this blizzard horrible visibility. Aviv wakes up as well and we're both like oh this could be bad. It's immediately clear what's happened. One of the many volcanoes which pepper this region must have erupted. In the last two days of hiking, Jeff and Aviv have already passed Katrupian and Vierrika which has erupted only a month before. But last night they camped within sight of Lannin, an ice-covered strato volcano with an elevation of over 12,000 feet which hasn't erupted in years. Surrounded by the dense cloud of ash with terrible visibility, it's impossible for Jeff and Aviv to tell which volcano has erupted and therefore how close they are to extreme danger.

Jeff has recently completed a natural disaster's course. He's been taught that in this situation there are many dangers to be aware of. I had learned that it's not actually lava you should be worried about with these eruptions. It's called a pyroclastic flow. This basically landslide of scorching hot ash and rock can come blasting down the side of the mountain at over a hundred miles an hour. And so I was thinking about are you in the path of what's basically an avalanche? It could also melt a lot of the glaciers on the volcano so that can create what's called a lahar and that's also a similarly deadly phenomenon. Jeff narrows his eyes trying to make out the topography of their immediate surroundings but everything is swallowed by the toxic fog. In my head I'm going through okay what is the terrain like are we actually right next to the base or do we have maybe a valley

or a ridge between us and the volcano but we also were kind of wondering could there be molten rock falling from the sky in any second. So we're just in this complete blackness and big unknown of how much danger we are really in. The ash falls relentlessly from the leaden sky. They've been warned about snowfall in the region that this is far worse. Definitely started to get worried. I tried to keep it under control. I remember turning to a view and saying what a beautiful day for a hike. Kind of making light of this situation that could be really bad. The men are left with a hugely difficult decision to make. They can either remain in their tent and try to wait out the ash blizzard or they can make a run for it. Both options are fraught with pitfalls. If they stay they will at least have some level of protection from the ash but they have no idea how long it will take to clear and since this was

supposed to be the last day of their hike the supplies are dwindling. They have less than a day's worth of water. And most pressingly a volcanic deluge could hit them at any moment. But walking out is just as perilous. They can barely see a few feet ahead of them so how will they find the trail again? Added to that are all the other potential dangers that come with such poor visibility. The increased chance of an accident for instance. Plus in a wild place like this what might be lurking out there in the ash clouds. They have no cell phone coverage and having entered the closed park secretly nobody knows they're here. Two choices it's a coin flip with no good outcomes. But eventually Jeff and Aviv reach a decision. We decided to go for the evacuation and so we packed up our stuff we stuffed the tent kind of willy-nilling to our bags. It's already completely covered with ash. We also made these ninja

masks out of shirts. We were trying to protect our eyes and our mouths from breathing the ash. We just had these little slits from these makeshift ninja masks that we could see through and my one headlamp giving us about five feet of visibility and headed out. I think in the decision whether we should hunker down or try it to evacuate it felt good to be able to take action and not just sit there sitting there would have been tough if we thought we were in a potential danger zone for rockfall or hieroclastic flows so it definitely spurred us to want to act. Wade down by their large packs the men survey the wasteland before them and orientate themselves in what they think is the right direction. Aviv's torch is much less powerful than Jeff's barely cutting through the gloom at all. As a result Jeff leads his own small headlamp illuminating a narrow swath of rocky ash encrusted terrain.

I have a pretty good sense of direction and I kind of just figured okay we know the direction we came from to get to this campsite. Bigly which direction the trail was but again our vision was it was almost like a submarine and the blackest depths of the ocean it was just this little bubble of light with nothing beyond. Wrapped in a tiny pocket of light they stumbled through the gray. The trail should only be around 200 feet from their campsite but everything now seems strange and alien totally different from what they experienced yesterday. They scan the ash-swirled darkness looking for any sign of the path or the red trail markers. After a minute or two they still haven't found anything and then with a crunch they stumble straight into a wall of bushes. Confused the two men double back they must have somehow wandered past the trail but as they tried to retrace their

steps nothing familiar emerges with such limited visibility it's impossible to get their bearings they soon run into another dead end forcing them to turn around once more as the minutes pass it happens again and then again. We just found ourselves starting to go in circles so starting to feel like okay are we getting more and more lost are we getting closer to the trail or further and I had no idea. With each new dead end panic rises they ping-pong back and forth from impenetrable walls of trees and bushes back to the lake they swam in the previous evening. The ashes made the waters so turbid and sludgy it's hardly recognizable. Breathing is difficult their energy is depleted and they're making no progress at all. We're just kind of stumbling around in this

hellscape and getting more and more lost probably and so at this point I'm getting really worried and thinking this is not going to work we're we're going to be completely lost in the wilderness in this blackness but then Aviv suddenly stops dead he's had an idea they may not have any cell service but that doesn't mean their phones are totally useless luckily Aviv had this awesome realization he realized he had a compass app on his phone they pull out their crumpled map and ascertain their very rough location then Aviv uses his phone compass to help orientate them with renewed energy they set off once again in what is hopefully the right direction there's a lot of guesswork involved but at least it's something after a bit more stumbling around I don't know how long it was maybe 30 minutes maybe more my

sense of time was probably thrown off but after a while is stumbling around we finally reached of red trail marker it was a huge morale boost to find that we we had found at least one of the trail markers so we were on the trail again and now since we had the compass we could point in the direction of the next trail marker it's a start now all they have to do is stay on the path in theory anyway they quicken their pace as the trail leads them into a dense forest but there's no let up from the ash it's as thick and intense as ever in the back of my mind I'm picturing red hot molten rock just dipping out of the sky and landing on us there was just this evening of we should get the hell out of here but even with the compass it's still hard to stay on track the path is vague sometimes zigzagging unexpectedly or seeming to disappear altogether Jeff and Aviv stumble into rocks roots or trees

which loom out of the darkness like sinister hands and discourage thick clouds of ash on top of the two men temporarily blinding them the darkness presses in all around broken only by the faint beam of the two headlamps we definitely lost the trail time and time again because we had kind of run into a wall of bushes or something like that and but there were feet signs of the trail indentations in the ground although it was covered with ash so it was very hard to follow Jeff keeps his head down scanning the ground for any clues each new trail marker they spot is a small victory and although they're making painfully slow progress they're at least moving forwards in the right direction but then everything changes we had been going through a forest which gave us more indications of the trail because there would be walls and bushes and thickets of trees

and it helped to keep us on trail so we started to make progress but then we hit this open clearing emerging from the trees the beam of Jeff's headlamp fans out illuminating a flat gray expanse of open ground they turn to look at each other their faces etched with concern there is absolutely no sign of where to go next the trail has disappeared again it's just our little bubble of light and this flat ash covered ground and no indication whatsoever where the next trail marker is going to be and so all of a sudden we're back into oh crap we could end up getting lost here Jeff and Aviv pause staring out into the dark depthless void of the clearing as the volcanic ash

continues to settle around them stumbling in blindly would almost certainly be a bad move they could end up retracing their steps or wandering away from the trail and going in circles undoing all of their progress so far but Jeff has a trick up his sleeve I had recently done a wilderness first responder training it wasn't exactly about dealing with volcanoes but it was about keeping calm in emergency situations and approaching things methodically and so I was able to just take a few breaths and think what's the best way to get through this clearing and not get lost and then I realized okay this is sort of like being lost in a cave system and what you can do in a cave system is follow the law by keeping one hand against the wall of a cave and never breaking contact the exit will eventually be reached realizing

they can apply the same logic to getting across the clearing Jeff and Aviv set out keeping the forest close on their left and scanning for any breaks in the tree line instead of trying to head out straight into the blackness I stuck to the edge of the forest we went left and went along the edge of this clearing ruling out all the gaps in the trees and places where we thought the trail might continue and eventually it brought us all the way around this wide area and they're right at the edge of the forest there's a trail marker so boom their tents shoulders slump in relief it's another little win Jeff and Aviv press onwards squinting into the gloom for the next red marker skeletal trees loom out of the ground all around them the branches snagging on their clothes and rucksacks and still the ash rains down smothering the landscape in a dull gray blanket

and that's not all deep in this wild remote part of the world there is an abundance of animal life including the native big cat the puma now and then there are rustles in the half glimpsed vegetation all around a reminder to Jeff and Aviv that they are not alone here and then something in the darkness moves I see this dark shape just shoot through the edge of my vision because we just had this small pocket of light and I just thought what the hell was that? Jeff pauses his pulse hammering but there's nothing everything is still once again perhaps he imagined it trying to shake it off the two men press deeper into the unknown but then a few minutes later another shape darts out of the blackness swooping past the edge of his

vision it was like something out of a horror movie it moved so fast I wasn't exactly sure if it was real then finally a third shape explodes out of the bushes near me and it swoops fast my head and then it flies back and actually clips me in the head. Reeling from the impact Jeff raises his eyes scanning the sinister overhanging trees on the somber sky as another shake darts from the darkness towards his head it suddenly becomes clear what is happening. There's these tiny birds that are shooting towards my head lamp like moths to a light and they had been sitting in complete darkness so they hadn't been able to move or fly all day basically they had been blinded so this was the first thing they had seen all day is my head lamp and they decided to fly up my head and so we kept I think these little demon birds popping out of the bushes and kind of attacking us turned out to

be not as much of a horror movie and more of a comedy and I joked with a bead that you know soon there would be pumas and deer and all kinds of animals just coming out of the forest with us. Jeff and Aviv continue on their long dark path trying to ignore the birds which occasionally dart towards them like tiny missiles they applaud wearily through the gloom losing and finding the path more times than they can counter around midday about four hours after leaving their tent that morning. Jeff looks up. Is it wishful thinking what does the sky seem lighter than before? We saw this extremely faint light start to appear and so over the course of about 30 minutes maybe we just see more and more light start to creep back into the world. Everything is still completely gray but apparently the ash cloud that had been totally blocking out the sun had dissipated

or the wind had changed direction and so we were not saved but this was like the moment of wow okay this is going to be a lot easier now that we can actually see. As the world around the men gradually brightens they're able to increase their speed. They trample across the dreamscape of solid ash covered terrain. And it kind of just turned into this world that was completely still completely silent and everything was gray but now we can see enough that kind of felt like we're just hiking through this apocalyptic dream of sorts. Beginning to feel faint from lack of food the two men pour us to eat some uncooked oatmeal and take a few sips from their canisters of water. It's not much but it'll have to keep them going. They've almost exhausted their meager supplies. When they go through the thinning ash along the rocky trail closer closer muscles aching until

the pair suddenly emerge onto a tarmac road. It marks the end of the trail. After five grueling hours they've made it. Huge relief we kind of cheered and high-fived each other and we could finally look at each other and realize we looked like total apocalypse survivors just absolutely covered an ash. Jeff and Aviv's good fortune continues about an hour after stumbling across the road the bus rumbles past. They're able to flag it down and head back to Pukong. After arriving in the city they returned to their hostel still covered in volcanic ash. They find everyone watching the news of the eruption on TV and are finally able to discover the events that led up to their narrow escape. It turns out that the distant boom they heard on their second night was the sudden and unexpected explosion of the Calbuco volcano which last erupted

in 1972. Thankfully for Jeff and Aviv it was miles away from them but the violent eruption emitted a vast plume of ash. At the two men been any closer they may not have made it out. It was just so much ash that it completely blocked out the sun and dumped ash across the landscape. We were just directly down into it. After recovering from their ordeal Jeff and Aviv split going their separate ways to continue their adventures. Jeff carries on with his trip through South America and makes it to the coast of Chile before heading home to San Francisco a few weeks later. Back in the US life for Jeff resumes as normal and he begins saving up money for his next expedition. But then he receives some shocking news. It's about Aviv. I hadn't really kept in touch with him but it was just a few months later. I heard

that he had passed not long after our little adventure. He had continued his adventure north up to Peru which I had already come through. He died due to high altitude sickness. Having successfully survived the aftermath of the Kelbuco eruption it is a cruel twist of fate that Aviv's young life should be cut so short. As for Jeff he says his recollections of the experience of vivid it's surreal. It kind of feels like a movie or something. It's a little odd looking back on that time of my life. It is such a wild adventure. The whole backpacking trip across South America and then that towards the end of it. So it feels oddly unreal. Although he made it out safely Jeff acknowledges that his adventure in the Via Rican National Park could have ended very differently.

In the intervening decade his attitude towards risk taking has changed. I think over the years in terms of risk mitigation I've learned to not be as dumb and I used to kind of take it for granted that I would injure myself at least once a season snowboarding because I was doing big jumps and stuff and I've learned that it's not worth it. So I dialed back the risk. I would say being able to stay calm and approach the situation as methodically as possible just being able to kind of take one step after another and figure it out as we went. Maybe it has to do with all my adventure activities, extreme sports over the years because that's just like a little taste of fear and danger but it's manageable. Let's say you're on the side of a cliff rock climbing. You have this innate fear but you have to kind of push through it and work methodically and know how to stay calm but I think doing those kinds of sports that gives

you a dose of fear but in a manageable environment is probably good practice for when you end up in a more gnarly situation. After returning to San Francisco Jeff also meets his wife who shares his love of nature. Their passion for outdoor pursuits leads them to move to Washington State and together they have built a life that revolves around the exploration of stunning scenery and landscapes both across the US and further afield. In short, Jeff's search for excitement and discovery lives on. While I've been lucky enough to continue all the same adventures meet my beautiful life who loves to do all these kinds of things with me so rather than having to travel solo now I'm with her and we'd love going abroad and doing big hikes and also just we're constantly getting outdoors and the mountains around us here in Washington just in search of even more mountains and more adventures.

In the next episode we meet Johann Otto. In 2005 the 43-year-old physiotherapist and his daughter Jenna are enjoying an ambitious hike in Glacier National Park to celebrate her graduation from high school but when they accidentally stumble upon a wild dangerous beast determined to protect its young everything changes in an instant. Desperate to save his daughter from the hideous death Johann confronts the vicious animal hoping he might buy Jenna enough time to escape locked in a brutal battle Johann and the beast go head-to-head each willing to sacrifice their own lives in order to protect their offspring. That's next time on Real Survival Stories. Listen today without waiting and at free by joining Noiser Plus.

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