Episode 4: Critical Condition

A number of long-simmering tensions between chefs and the media recently boiled over following the New York Times bombshell Per Se review. An all-star round-table representing both camps, and several generations, join Jimmy and Andrew to make sense of it all this week: Drew Nieporent, Hanna Raskin, Sam Sifton, Alex Stupak, Ryan Sutton, and David Waltuck. We discuss the complicated and evolving relationship between these two populations: Should reviews be written/consumed as entertainment? Does the star system still make sense? Why the recent critical focus on value? Is it appropriate for chefs to respond to critics and — if so — how? A rare opportunity to hear these two populations exchange ideas about this complex, hot-button topic.

“A bad review is something that I don’t feel a need to respond to, but I take very much to heart and I think all restauranteurs and chefs do.” [16:00] –David Waltuck on The Front Burner “At its best, the critic can act as a translator, explainer, or reporter who is divining what is going on here culturally as opposed to what is going on here from a business perspective.” [17:50] –Sam Sifton on The Front Burner

 

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