3D Printing yesterday (repeat from 11/23/2017)

0:003D printing today, show number 214, mixing it up with SLA, DIY curing box, PEI last result, going super cheap. Welcome back to 3D printing today, the podcast about all aspects of 3D printing. It's a hobby, professional, industrial, it doesn't matter, we talk about it all. My name is Andy Cohen, I'm here at Mr. Whitney Potter. How are you doing Andy? I'm doing pretty good. You know, there really hasn't been that much to talk about in the news. It's kind of funny, the month of October, going to November, you see things kind of slow down in not just 3D printing, but a lot of other sectors as well, kind of like the ramp up for the big Christmas push. But you know, it's interesting, we're not seeing a lot of really interesting, compelling

1:01news. So instead we're going to talk about really goofy news. And I found this on a couple of websites out there and I got a, went right to their website, I got, we got to talk about this because it's just, it's just too goofy to be, to be real, but it is real. It's called Blizzard Dent. Blizzard Dent. Blizzard Dent.com. Someone in Spain, because this is coming out of Spain, came up with an idea where you send them your 3D scan of your teeth. They don't mention where you're going to get that 3D scan of your teeth. You're going to have to go to a dentist. You're going to have to buy that from your dentist. And your dentist has going to have to release those files for you. And your dentist will be going WTF. Yeah. And that gives your dentist the opportunity to kind of poo-poo it. But assuming, assuming your dentist doesn't, you could send your files to this company and they can make one of one or more of two products that they sell.

2:02Which I got to say, I got to take multiple double takes. The first one's a toothbrush. Basically they make a mold using 3D printing. They 3D print molds of your teeth with little bristles sticking out of the surfaces of the reverse of your teeth. With the idea that you will jam your teeth into that mold with the little bristles and that will brush your teeth just by moving your jaw up and down. It looks kind of like the mouth guard that my son wears for playing football with just bristles on the inside of it. So as you bite down on the bristles and the bristles get compressed. All right. So you just basically chew on this thing and it brushes your teeth. Yeah. And what the stuff's made out of. They say it's a biocompatible resin. So my big question looking at that thing is how the hell do you clean that? Very carefully.

3:02Probably with a toothbrush. You'd have to boil it or something to be able to sanitize it. Think of all of the nooks and crannies that you're going to have crap growing in there. My word. Okay. And it looks like something out of a Ridley Scott movie from the 1980s. Don't make fun of Ridley Scott. I'm not. I'm like aliens. It looks like something out of aliens. The other product is even goofier and that's the 3D flosser. Yes. What were these guys thinking? So basically they take the structure of your teeth, draw lines through each of the pathways between your teeth, develop a structure and you bridge the structure with the floss. So I wonder how long it takes to do that because this thing looks complex. Well, yeah, you sort of have to thread this thing and I guess whenever you need to change it, then you have to wind like a foot of floss or it appears to have two spools of floss on the end of it. It's wild. And then you basically bite down onto the floss. And of course, you know, they've got the 3D image of your teeth.

4:02So the idea is that each line of floss matches the gaps between the teeth of your entire mouth. Right. But the problem is not really how you're supposed to use floss. Exactly. It's kind of like it defeats the purpose of floss and completely floss. floss isn't supposed to go between your teeth. It's supposed to go between your teeth and your gums. And if you're putting it straight down between your teeth, you're actually probably damaging yourself. And I got my best results from my dentist after he taught me to take the floss and bow it so that it goes against the side of the tooth. Exactly. And that takes some tedious, careful operations to do that in this device is just not going to do that. But here's the funniest thing of all of it. So let's look at how much they charge for this. And I don't think this is funny. I just think it's really, really interesting. The toothbrush, they charge $99 for it. Oh, wow. And $99. That's super cheap.

5:04For what they're doing, you got to wonder what were they thinking? Because to do that level of work, but even crazier than that is the flosser. The flosser, let's see, how much is the flosser? Perchus. They are 3D flosser. The flosser is $200. $200. Look at how much work has to go into the flosser. I mean, that's not a trivial structure there. That's not easy. Well, and the thing is why they're so cheap is that these guys are just 3D printing them. They're not doing clinical tests on are they effective? You know, it doesn't look like they're thinking behind this other than, hey, we've got this great idea. But I think to do the flosser will take so much time and careful work to get it. I mean, think about it. It's got to be the reverse of the structure. Each hole has to be in the right place, which means you've got to build a model of the lines of where the floss is going to go through. You have to reverse that model to get the structure that's going to go holding the

6:07floss. I mean, that's a ton of work right there. It's a ton of analytical, careful design work. That's not $200 worth of work. Well, I would design it as a parametric model where you could just drag each line to where it needs to go on the model. Which can't be because the tooth model is separate for each person, which means each person, you've got to design the pathway of the floss. And that's time. That's a lot of time. That's a lot of time. The human teeth are the same. They're just different shapes and different sizes, but we by and large have the same teeth. You still have to map out. You still have to take that 3D model and put a line there, put a line there, put a line there. Once you have all those lines, then you have to build a model that goes across all those lines and then poke the holes through to that $200. I'm not sign enough to do that. Well, neither of them. I think this has to be the goofiest 3D printed idea, commercial idea we've seen in quite

7:08a while. I'd have to agree with that. It's even goofier than some of the food ideas. And there's some pretty goofy ideas up there. Well, this is what you used to brush your teeth and floss your teeth after you've eaten your 3D printed food. Oh, yeah. You can have the complete 3D printed food and tooth brushing experience. Oh gosh. What's coming up on our show this week, Whitney? Well, let's see. We start out talking about mixing it up with SLA. And then we explore, do it yourself, curing box. And we have your last result with PEI. And then we're going to look at very inexpensive 3D printers that are available right now. And are they worth it? We're going to discuss that. Alright, let's get started. So I've been printing for a while with a blue maker juice

8:10resin. Yeah, you show me some of that stuff. Yeah, that's pretty nice stuff. And you gave me a bunch of white, there's a little bit of white fun to do. Fun to do. So I was using the fun to do resin and I was running a little bit low on it and I didn't have very much left, not enough to do a big print. And I said, well, what should I do? I've got a little bit of blue resin and a little bit of white resin. Like, ah, what the hell? Let's mix them together. Just blend them together. What do you got to lose? So only about eight hours I did. And actually it worked. It worked just fine. So this is fun to do snow white. And that's and maker juice snap fit, SF plus I think they call it. And the different manufacturers, different colors. And it printed just fine. Interesting. It's something to think about. I wouldn't go so far as to say that every combination will work.

9:13I don't know, but this one did. So there is that possibility. Now I have mixed whanhow resin's different colors and it's worked perfectly fine, but no change at all. But I've never mixed different manufacturers. Yeah. And the fun to do stuff is very different from other stuff. Yeah, the fun to do stuff is very, very, very thin. And the interesting thing is the first print that I did with it, the first layer when I was just printing fun to do turned out white because the fun to do was white. And then I poured in some blue resin and every layer thereafter was just blue because the white fun to do floated on top of the blue. Interesting. Until I cleared that print and then started mixing it together and you can actually physically mix them and they do, you know, sort of stay in suspension. Although the fun to do I think has a lot of, was it titanium? Oxide or some pigment it looks like in it that tends to settle out. But yeah, after mixing them together, they stayed sort of a light blue color.

10:16They both cooked off at about the same time. I was using basically the same time setting and that could be, you know, same exposure. That could be a limiting factor as well. But now I want to get some of the fun to do white and the fun to black, which are both about the same viscosity and fill the build that simultaneously from side by side and see if you can see if you can get a print like that. And as you go up, it'll slowly sort of morph into gray as it gets mixed together. That'll be an interesting prayer. Yeah. I think it'll find it. One of the things I noticed about the prints you always show me is they're always sticky. Oh, sorry. I can't stand it. So I hated it with my prints too. So what I was doing, at least when I initially got my duplicator seven, was I would take a plastic cup and fill it with water and drop the object into the water and stick it outside in the sun for about a day. And then I'd, you know, take it out. And of course the resin soaks up the water. So after I take it out of the water and dump the water, the water's usually got some cured

11:21resin in it. So it's safe to put into the environment. It's not uncured. I take the object and let the object dry inside, not in the sun otherwise it could crack. And eventually the water in the resin goes away and that's how I get my object. Well, I wanted to find a faster way to do that. And companies like print XYZ, those guys, they sell a curing box that has some UV light and you put your object in there. You could also, I've seen folks describe this and I've tried it. You can purchase a box for curing fingernail polish and it has fluorescent based UV bulbs and you put your hand in there and I tried that too. I put objects in there. The problem with those boxes, which are very inexpensive by the way. That's their best quality. Yeah, they're pretty inexpensive. They're like six, six to sixteen dollars I've seen them in. The problem with them though is that you can't really put like a big cup of water into them because they're made flat for somebody's hand.

12:23So it didn't work well for me. For people who don't get enough UV exposure on their hands. It's not good for you really. Anyway, I've noticed online lots of folks were trying a different approach and I wanted to try it. Folks would purchase a long strip of UV LEDs and we'll put a reference for where you can find these. Usually you get them from China. So you got to buy through a website like AliExpress. You could probably find them on Amazon or eBay. So I'll put a couple of links in there for folks. They're not that expensive. I think I bought a fairly long strip. I bought, I think it was about sixteen feet strip long of these ultraviolet LEDs and the ones that I got, although some people online say don't get this kind. I got this kind. I got the kind that our waterproof so that you could put them under water. It's thinking that I would spiral attach them to the inside of a paint can and then fill the paint can with water and then drop the object.

13:25Now the reason why we use the water is... The reason why you need the water is because you have these inhibitors in most resins that are the reason why the resin doesn't cook off instantaneously in air so that there's a chemical that keeps it from polymerizing while it's exposed to air. So you don't get good curing results unless the uncured resin is not exposed to air. It's still curable but it'll take a long time. So ideally you put it into an environment without air and of course that's underwater. Otherwise you could put it back in the resin but then the resin itself will cure onto it and turn to a solid block. I put it in water and so I bought a pen can from our local hardware store next door to me. I took the backing off the LEDs and got to spiral them in real carefully. What I did was I took a ruler first and I figured how long the strip was calculated how

14:30long each loop inside the periphery of the thing. I got an idea of just notching in my pencil where each loop should stop so I had a good idea of where to go and pulled the beginning of the backing off and attached it and held it and very carefully rotated the can and made sure that it was at that point. And then after I got the first loop in it stuck I put the whole thing in as one big group and then pulled the paper and attached one loop at a time. It's hard to get it exact. You don't have to make it perfect. You just want to get it all to fit in there. You just want it to fit and be even somewhat evenly spread on the walls of the can. Then I got myself a trusty radio shack power supply that did 12 volts. You can purchase them anywhere online. They only cost maybe 10 to 15 dollars. You can get multiple amperage, multiple voltages. I put mine all the way up to 12 volts because it was a pretty long strip. I used the same cup that I was sticking the stuff out in the sunlight with and put the

15:34object in, dropped it into the can, covered the can, turned it on because the light's not good for you. You don't want your eyes on, ruin your eyes. And it heats up. It stuff gets hot. It gets warm in there. You'd think the can would be giving you a pretty good heat sink for your LED strips and the LEDs. Do heat up the back planes of the LEDs? It still gets hot. It gets hot. The object gets hot. The object gets hot. It takes anywhere from 15 minutes to about an hour maybe. You take the object out, you don't need gloves. It's cured. Super cooked. It's cured. Then you get the water off of it and no more stickiness at all. If you'd like, I could take one of your objects and cook it for me. Sure. Sure. So we've kind of beat this one to death. But we've got to do one more segment on it. And this was my analysis of using PEI as a adhesive on the surface of a build plate.

16:41And I say that in that way on purpose because I've refused to use a 3D printer where I'm forced to have the build plate bonded to the build shelf, the 3D printer. You want it removable from the printer? I have to have it removable. And I print so much that I need to have multiple surfaces. I need to have a build plate in the freezer or I have another one on the printer. I need to be able to swap them out. If one breaks, I don't want to have to then have to go to the mail and wait for shipment to get a replacement. I think in my opinion, and I feel pretty strong about this opinion, that the build plate itself is a disposable, a materialable, a consumable. And as such, I should be able to easily with clips, remove it, and put another one on. So PEI, at least initially, seemed to support that as well as does build tech, as does

17:42aquanet, aggloustic, pva, pva glue that you smear on. But I got into a debate with one of our listeners about using PEI. And he mentioned this because of our review of the Lollsbot Mini, which just happens to have a fixed build plate attached to the build surface. And if you've listened to our CES interview with the head guy at Alif objects, I told them that that's bad and they're not listening. And we've been telling that for years. We've been telling that, they just ignore it because their users work around it. They figure it out. And I try to tell them, you don't want your users to have to figure it out, but they don't listen. So fine. We stand by our opinion, removable bill plates is a hard requirement. And I would look carefully at a 3D printer if it doesn't have a removable build plate. Because that says something about the designers of that 3D printer, that they're not really

18:45listening or looking at their user needs. They're thinking, I can define what the user needs. And that's not what I would call a user-centric. It's not hard to do either. I mean, we've both modified and innumerable printers to add removable build plates once they get to come with them. So I got into this bit of a debate. And so I figured the best way to solve debates of this nature, which are really objective questions, is to just try PEI because part of the debate was PEI. And we had talked about wanting to really evaluate PEI because companies like Taipei machines, as well as Alaphobjects, are using PEI as their base product. So I got a 3-mill sheet and it had self-adhesive on it. And I attached it to a plate of glass and clipped it to my Race 3D and 2, balanced and adjusted the build plate so that it was the right height. And as we said in our previous segments, worked fairly well for PLA and it worked fairly

19:46well for ABS. And I have to say, it was comparable to a well-made surface of Aquinet or glue stick. PVA glue is a little bit harder stick than these guys were. So I would say this was better in my opinion than PVA. I liked it. I liked using it for PLA and for ABS. But that's not the way I 3D print. I 3D print using PETG and TPU, probably more than PLA or ABS. But in any case, my user needs are to be able to go from PLA to ABS to PETG to TPU to nylon to anything. Any material that meets my customer's needs, one of the reasons why I need a movable build plate, of course. So when I tried using PETG on the PEI surface, which was working so well for me, I found

20:50that it didn't want to release. I let it cool down. I took it off, put it in the freezer. It's still didn't want to release. So I had to get a nice sharp knife and put it underneath carefully and slowly edge it up. And then I put it in the freezer and it's going to be a part off. It marred the surface. Kind of like what it does for Aquinet, it leaves the imprint of the surface of the first layer. But in PEI, you can't clear that off. That's permanent. It does not go away. Unless, of course, you print another part on top of it. That's a bigger shape. But then the shape of the previous part will be in the impression of the first layer of the part that you print on that, which is unfortunate. So I figured, well, that's the way it goes. I'll just print in other locations on the bill plate from here on in. And I'll just, you know, the next $26 to replace this three mill, it'll be worth it anyway. So I think I'll just keep going. Now I had a job in TPU. I was printing watch bands in TPU. TPU and PEI are not a good mix.

21:51The TPU bonds to the PEI and it would not release. I had to tear the PEI to get it off the bill plate. And then after I had the object off the bill plate, I still couldn't get the pieces of PEI off the TPU. It's kind of like printing on it. Have you ever tried printing on Plexiglass on acrylic? Yeah. Yeah. It does not. It will not separate if you go directly on it, which is useful for things where you don't want it to separate. You can print something and have a real nice, perfectly clear background on it. Yeah. You have your nice base, your acrylic base. Exactly, but you never get it off. Yeah. Drown of us all crazy when they made the bill plates and the replicator too out of a curling. I don't know how did they do that. So my opinion, PEI, it works okay for PLA and ABS, but it's a fail. And Aquinet is still number one in my mind because Aquinet meets all of the solutions. Good diversity. Right. So when I posted this, the reply I got back, and I don't know if it was from the fellow

22:53who I had to debate with or elsewhere on the forums where I was also maintaining a conversation about this because I found on the forums it was 50, 50, half the people on the forums liked PEI the other half were like almost like it was bill tack. They hated it. They totally hated it. And I would recommend bill tax also an issue in the same area. Bill tack does not release some materials and you will be tearing your very expensive bill tack sheet. If you use it and bill tack does not warn you about that, they want you to buy another sheet I guess. So when I posted this information up, I got replies that were a little bit bizarre like, well, I use tockam powder when I print pet G or TPU. Tockam powder. Tockam powder. And then I got another reply that said, I put down glue stick when I do TPU. And you're not printing a good P.O. you're printing on glue stick. So I wrote a reply and I hoped it was red as sarcastic, but it wasn't. And I said, why not just spray aquanet on the PEI?

23:54And the person goes, that's a good idea. So on P.I. I don't know. And then you can just remove the P.E.I from the sandwich. Have your aquanet on your pill plate and your back where you started. The back where you started. So I have to scratch my head over the use of P.E.I. for the aliphobjects and the type A machines on their plates. I just don't understand. But I guess they just don't want to support the use of pet G and TPU, I guess. Well, if you have an entry level machine where people are predominantly going to be printing with P.O. I wouldn't call type A machines or a test six and entry level machine. Type A machines are definitely not in the test six, isn't, but like the mini though. The mini, yeah. There's an entry level machine. And what's nice about using P.E.I. and a small machine like this is you can buy replacement parts because they're fairly small. But when you go up to the size of a type A machine or a race 3D, you're talking 30 to 50 bucks for a thicker plate. And then you're spraying aquanet on it anyway for TPU.

24:56It doesn't make sense to me. It just doesn't make sense. And then you're supposed to wipe the aquanet off before you print other stuff on it. You could do that. It's water soluble, but even so. The problems I'm hearing with the larger, the thicker P.E.I. plates is that like with lexan, they bow. And you can't hold them down in the middle because they're so big. So I think that closes the door on P.E.I. Sorry. So listen, or tire, Tyler Griffin from Utah. Hey, Tyler. Send us a question. He says, I've been listening for a while and love the podcast. I'm looking for my own printer. I have a budget of about $400. And he goes on to say he's interested in the monoprice maker select version two and sort of ass our opinion on it. So we can talk about that and also talk about is $400 or a reasonable budget for a 3D printer these days.

25:57Well, let's first look at the monoprice version that he was looking at. It's basically a Prusa i3 clone. Yeah, it's really similar like as in popped out of the same factory kind of similar to the one how i3, which is slightly, they're famous slightly different than the original Prusa, but it's basically the same design. Yeah, it has the moving bed and the same two stepper motors to run the Z-axis. It's basically the rep rap. Yeah. I think so I don't want to comment on that printer specifically because we don't have one and it's not fair to comment on it. But what we've seen almost consistently is when you go that low cost wise, it's the same as going to harbor freight and buying a bandsaw basically. And that's your level of support is limited. However, there'll be a lot of people who bought them.

27:01However, you'll need to fix them, but there'll be people out there who'll tell you how they've fixed theirs. If you're adventurous and you like to tinker and you know, mind it and that's part of the lure, then sure, it's fun. It's a fun toy. On the other hand, if you've got projects to get out and you want to test designs or do prototyping or you're going to produce, definitely no. That's not a good way to go. Now model price, they're a discount electronic supply company that I have dealt with, an interesting company, and they've gone out and sourced these super low cost printers. Model price does not produce these things. Model price finds them out there in Shenzhen or wherever in China. And they just say, make me that, put my label on it.

28:01Here are some requirements I have for it, and that's about it. Right. It looks virtually identical to the one how I free as in like down to the last bolt from what I can see in the pictures at least. Now that said, it's running between $300 and $400 depending on who's paying for the shipping. It's a machine that has an LCD screen. The LCD screen is in a separate module with the power supply and everything. And it has a heated bed. So heated bed to LCD screen for 400 bucks delivered. That's a hell of a deal. As long as the connectors are usually the wires of the right, it's one of the things that a lot of folks miss is that they use wire that may not be the right diameter for the amount of energy that's going through it. And when they're not the right diameter, things happen.

29:01Things happen. Things happen that you don't want to happen. We saw that in the replicator one and the replicator one clones where the connector at the heated bed would ignite and melt. We've seen it inside the body at where the motherboard is, there are certain connectors, certain sometimes resistors pop and capacitors pop. So keep that in mind. The folks that slap these things together are not electrical engineers. They will use whatever wire they have and it may not be the right wire. So you've got to be prepared for those kinds of things. Then there's the inside the 3D printer itself, the extruder. A lot of these companies use Teflon liners. They're not necessarily bad, but you need to understand that because you're not going to want to print an nylon using Teflon liners. You've got to heat a 100 dollar printer in there. You've got to heat a bill plate. You can't think, oh, I'm going to print ABS. Probably not. You're going to have to put that printer into a box and heat that box up to get it to work correctly.

30:02So there are things you need to understand. Now, model price is not a bunch of other printers. They've done one that's like, I think it's colored white and it's all sheet metal and it's a smaller bed. And I was able to get my hands on one of those. And actually, I was kind of impressed. I liked that printer for a very small size, small format printer that looked really good for the price. It was like $200. That's the, yeah, the select mini, which is running a 200 in-chain. I got to play with it and take it apart. And again, like the other one, it's like buying a Harbor Freight bandsaw. You've got to expect to get in there and tweak it and fix it and play with it. Again, if you're not off for that, do not buy any of these or another popular one that's out there, which is getting cloned like crazy, is the CR10. People have asked us about that. The CR10 is just like the I3 in the way the bed moves backwards and forwards and the print head goes up and down and left and right. Those machines look interesting. They're very inexpensive.

31:04Like I've seen people put out good prints on those. However, you got to be prepared to pull out your tools and get ready to fix it. Now people would argue with us and say, well, aren't they all like that? And definitely the answer is no. They're not all like that. My craft bought, I've never really had to take it apart. And it's been running every day in our shop for going on two years now. That says a lot about craft unique products, although I wouldn't buy their larger one because it's a cantilevered shelf on a rather high format. But the craft bought plus, that's a fantastic machine. There are machines out there that you don't have to pull your tools out and they don't cost that much more. You can get a craft bought plus for about $1,000. I mean, where $1,000 will be $1,100. That's pretty darn good. So you need to ask yourself, do I really want to save?

32:05I don't want to pay half as much, but tinker with it and tune it and play with it all the time. Or just even when you get it tuned out, you're not going to get the best quality prints from it. Yeah, that's an important point. Versus, save a little bit longer and not only do you have a machine, you don't have the tweak and tune, but you're going to get fantastic quality prints because it's Corax Y with a heated bill plate and a fantastic bed. I don't know man, I just don't know. Something to think about, but for $400, $400, I looked at it on Amazon and you can sort of see the reviews and you can see people either loved it or hated it and it seemed to come down to whether they got a good one or not. And anything that's coming out of low price manufacturing and quality control is just too expensive. They don't bother with it. Their idea of quality control is if you get a bad quality one, they'll take it back. Yeah, throw you throw a new one out there. Right, they don't care.

33:06Because they only probably paid like a buck. So I would recommend any printer that you're going to get like this, buy it from a retailer where return is easy. Don't buy it direct from the manufacturer. Don't buy it on Ali where you're going to have to return it overseas. From somebody where you can buy it from Amazon where you can just click a button and they will come and take it away the next day. Yeah, we can't stress enough. Don't buy a 3D printer through Ali Express. Yeah, do not do that. Yeah, there's just too much that can go wrong and returning becomes too big a hassle. So but if you get a good one, people, there's a lot of people seem to happy with it and people who, at least judging by the reviews, seem fairly knowledgeable about 3 printing. It's not like there's the first 3 printed they were seen and they're astonished by it. They're like, you know, they have other 3D printers and this one is a pretty good one. There you go, Whitney. Another show written to our hard drive waiting for encoding, uploading and commitment on our

34:07feed to all of our very supportive listeners. Thank you all out there for your support on patreon.com as well as the great reviews we've been getting. We have a lot of five store reviews. We really appreciate that. Thank you so much. Thanks for just listening. You know, it really makes it worth wild toast that people are actually listening to this show because we're not really doing anything with it. Again, we don't advertise our own businesses on this show. We don't push our own profit in any way. We don't really have any advertising. And I think we're going to keep it that way, even though we have had offers that would change the show, that would change what we're doing and why we're doing it. So we're not going to do that. And that's worth it anyway. It wasn't worth it. It wasn't worth changing it that much. Let's see. I've got a thing of the week. Yes, you do. A parameterized fidget cube. And this is coming to us off of Thingiverse. From ePetal, otherwise known as Edward Patel of Stockholm, Sweden.

35:08Thank you, Edward. This is thing number 2617085. Now, and now we've seen fidget cubes like this before a couple of times now, but this one's parameterized so that you can tweak it and tune it and change it, change its size, change aspects of it. And it looks like it's printing place. It would be a great candidate for a multicolor 3D print off of your new mark. Was it Mark III? The I-3 or is it Mark II? It's the Mark II, the multi-head unit that we never got an example of from Mr. Prusa. Or you could use it on the palette or palette plus from the folks at Mosaic. That would be cool. Yeah, we are going to try that with the palette plus definitely. We're going to be working with the palette plus quite a bit in the weeks ahead. Cool. So let's see what's coming up on the show next time, Whitney. Show number 215. We start about talking about printing Eiffel Towers. We're going to do an overview of what's available right now with 3D capture also called 3D

36:12scanning. And then we ask and then answer the listener question, are we ready for pellets? And then we're going to also answer the question at least attempt to when to replace the FEP or FEP film in your DUP SLA 3D printer. Let's see, if you've got a question, a tip where you'd like to just say, hi, please don't hesitate. We love hearing from our listeners send us an email. Send it to info at 3dprintingtoday.com. And if you use Facebook, which a lot of people do, that's a bit unfortunate, you can go to our group on Facebook and you could just join the group without having to be friend it at 3D printing today podcast number three and three separate words and 3D printing today. I think that's it. Great. Thanks for listening.